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Background

祇園祭 Gion Matsuri

DateThu, Jul 1 – Sat, Jul 31in 258 days
CrowdsExtremely crowded
CostFree, with paid seats
If it rainsHeld in the rain

Kyoto’s biggest festival, running all July. The highlights are the evening street gatherings (Yoiyama) and the parade of towering festival floats (Yamaboko Junko).

Where
四条通・烏丸〜河原町周辺/八坂神社
How to enjoy it
Yoiyama is the atmospheric part: streets close to cars and the floats are lit. It is extremely crowded; avoid big bags and plan your way out.

Background

Gion Matsuri is the annual festival of Yasaka Shrine, running the whole month of July, from Kippu-iri on July 1 to the Ekijinja Nagoshi-sai on July 31. It consists of shrine rites organized by Yasaka Shrine and the yamaboko float events organized by the float neighborhoods; the latter are designated a National Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property. The festival traces its origins to goryo-e rites held to quell epidemics (the Gion Goryo-e), and was revived time and again by townspeople after interruptions over its long history.

What to see

  • Saki-matsuri float procession (July 17, from 9:00 a.m.): 23 floats parade through the parish districts, led by the Naginata-hoko.
  • Ato-matsuri float procession (July 24, from 9:30 a.m.): 11 floats led by the Hashibenkei-yama, taking the reverse route of the saki-matsuri.
  • Yoiyama evenings (July 14–16 for saki-matsuri, July 21–23 for ato-matsuri): floats lit up, Gion-bayashi music performed, and old merchant houses display treasured folding screens (Byobu Matsuri).
  • Shinko-sai (July 17, rites from 4:00 p.m.) and Kanko-sai (July 24, from around 4:00 p.m.): three mikoshi travel between Yasaka Shrine and the Shijo Otabisho.
  • Chimaki: talismans sold around the floats during yoiyama, hung at doorways to ward off epidemics; they are not food.

Timeline

Jul 9–14
Building of saki-matsuri floats (saki-matsuri neighborhoods)
Jul 12–13
Trial pulling of saki-matsuri floats
Jul 14–16
Saki-matsuri yoiyama (saki-matsuri neighborhoods)
Jul 17, 9:00 a.m.–
Saki-matsuri yamaboko procession (parish districts)
Jul 17, 4:00 p.m.–
Shinko-sai mikoshi procession (Yasaka Shrine – Shijo Otabisho)
Jul 18–21
Building of ato-matsuri floats
Jul 21–23
Ato-matsuri yoiyama
Jul 24, 9:30 a.m.–
Ato-matsuri yamaboko procession (parish districts)
Jul 24, around 4:00 p.m.–
Kanko-sai mikoshi procession (Shijo Otabisho – Yasaka Shrine)
Jul 31, 10:00 a.m.–
Ekijinja Nagoshi-sai (Ekijinja, Yasaka Shrine grounds)

How to watch

  • The processions can be watched free from the roadside. The Kyoto City Tourism Association sets up paid reserved seats along Oike-dori; part of the proceeds funds the festival's preservation.
  • During yoiyama the floats can be viewed up close. On the evenings of July 15–16 the downtown area becomes a pedestrian zone with street stalls; there is no pedestrian zone or stalls on July 14 or during ato-matsuri yoiyama (July 21–23).
  • Parasols, umbrellas and tripods are prohibited in the reserved seats; bring a raincoat and take heat precautions, and take your trash home.

Getting there

The processions pass along Oike-dori; reserved seats are between Kawaramachi-Oike and Shinmachi-Oike (saki-matsuri) and around Karasuma-Oike and between Teramachi-Oike and Kawaramachi-Oike (ato-matsuri), near Karasuma-Oike and Kyoto Shiyakusho-mae subway stations. The yoiyama float neighborhoods are around Shijo-Karasuma.

Good to know

Does the procession go ahead in the rain?

Yes. The official seat guide states the yamaboko procession is held rain or shine; refunds are given only if the procession itself is cancelled. Umbrellas are prohibited in the seats, so bring a raincoat.

How do I buy reserved seats?

They are sold by the Kyoto City Tourism Association via the Pia ticketing site and convenience stores, with sales usually opening in early June each year (dates and prices are announced annually).

Can I use a tripod or umbrella for photos in the seats?

No. Tripods, parasols and umbrellas are prohibited in the reserved seating area so as not to block other viewers' sightlines.

Are there food stalls?

Street stalls appear during the pedestrian-zone evenings of July 15–16; there are none on July 14 or during ato-matsuri yoiyama (July 21–23).

What is chimaki?

A talisman sold around the floats during yoiyama, hung at doorways to ward off epidemics; it is not something to eat.

Sources