鞍馬の火祭 Kurama no Hi Matsuri

Background

The Kurama Fire Festival is the main annual festival of Yuki Shrine in the village of Kurama, Sakyo Ward, Kyoto, held on the night of October 22 every year. Its origin is traced to 940 (Tengyo 3), when Emperor Suzaku ordered the deity Yuki Daimyojin, enshrined in the Imperial Palace, to be transferred to Kurama to guard the northern approach to the capital; villagers lit watch fires along the road to welcome the deity, and this act is said to have become the festival. It is a registered intangible folk cultural property of Kyoto City and one of Kyoto's three great eccentric festivals.

What to see

• In the early evening, each household lights a watch fire (kagaribi) in front of its door; children carry small torches first, followed by adults with large torches, parading through the village chanting "Saireya, Sairyo."
• After dark, the giant torches gather on the stone steps in front of the Sanmon Gate of Kurama-dera, forming a wall of fire — a dramatic climax scene of the night.
• Once the torches burn down, the sacred straw rope (shimenawa) is cut and two portable shrines (mikoshi) of the deities descend the steep approach from the shrine, then parade through the village to their temporary resting place (Otabisho).
• Before the procession ends, large "kagura torches" are offered at the shrine grounds; the rite lasts until around midnight, and the mikoshi return to the shrine the following morning.
• The torches and mikoshi are considered to hold the deities' spirits; please do not touch them.

Timeline

Around 18:00

After the call "Shinji ni mairassha-re" ("Come to the ritual"), households light the eji watch fires and torches; children with small torches lead the procession, joined by adults with larger torches.

Around 20:00

The large torches of each neighborhood group (nakama) parade through the village and gather at the stone steps in front of the Sanmon Gate of Kurama-dera.

Around 21:00

The shimenawa in front of the gate is cut; two mikoshi descend the steep approach from Yuki Shrine, with women pulling the ropes (tsunakata) to control their speed.

Around midnight

The mikoshi parade through the village and rest at the Otabisho; kagura torches are offered to close the night procession.

Next morning

The mikoshi return from the Otabisho to the shrine (Kankosai), completing all rites.

How to watch

• Viewing is free along the streets, but Kurama's lanes are narrow and space to stand is very limited; stopping in front of the Sanmon Gate is prohibited.
• The Eizan Railway Kurama Line is the main way to reach Kurama on the festival day — arrive early, otherwise you may miss the better viewing spots.
• Torches send out showers of sparks; keep your distance and follow the instructions of the security staff, and do not block the procession route.
• Nights in the mountains are cold and waiting for the return train takes a long time, so dress warmly and plan your stamina.

Getting there

Take the Eizan Railway Kurama Line to the terminus, Kurama Station (about 30 minutes from Demachiyanagi Station); the station is right in the festival area. The Yuki Shrine official site lists this as the access route.

Good to know