京菓子司 末富 本店

Suetomi began in 1893. Its signature Kyo Fusen turns the layered colours of Heian court ladies' robes into a cracker: small wheat-gluten balloons in five sugars — red, white, blue, green and yellow — 25 pieces for ¥1,296. Even the wrapping paper is a work in itself: after the war, the second-generation owner asked the painter Ikeda Harumura to design the Sue-Tomi blue, white laid down first, then blue, a beauty they called 'the aesthetics of stopping just short'. The shop states it does not mass-produce, keeping the old forms. Umaku Iku Hisashiku costs ¥1,620 including tax.

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