鶴屋吉信 本店

Tsuruya Yoshinobu began in 1803. Its signature Tsubara-tsubara is baked slowly on a copper plate: a soft, springy skin of wheat and glutinous rice flour around chunky Ogura bean paste from large Tokachi azuki beans; one piece costs ¥270. Kyo Kanze, a whirlpool yokan created in 1920, takes its swirl from the legend of the Kanze well dragon of the Noh Kanze school, and each log is still rolled by hand (¥1,944). Upstairs, the six-seat Kayo Chaya counter lets you watch a master make seasonal fresh sweets before your eyes and eat them with matcha; reservations take priority.

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