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初詣 Hatsumode

DateFri, Jan 1 – Sun, Jan 3in 77 days
CrowdsExtremely crowded
CostFree to watch
If it rainsHeld in the rain

The first shrine visit of the year. Fushimi Inari, Yasaka and Heian Shrine are the most crowded in Kyoto.

Where
伏見稲荷大社・八坂神社・平安神宮ほか
How to enjoy it
Expect long queues; many shops are closed Jan 1–3. Go early in the morning of Jan 2 or 3 for lighter crowds.

Background

Hatsumode traces back to the Heian-era practice of toshigomori, in which the head of a household spent New Year's Eve at the family's guardian shrine to greet the new year. Until the Edo period, New Year visits were mostly to one's local guardian shrine or to one lying in the year's lucky direction. With the spread of railways in the mid-Meiji era, people began traveling to famous shrines farther afield, giving shape to the modern hatsumode.

What to see

  • Fushimi Inari Taisha is the head shrine of the roughly 30,000 Inari shrines nationwide, and has been revered since 711 as the god of abundant harvests, prosperous business, family safety, and the fulfillment of wishes (shrine's official site).
  • Yasaka Shrine, affectionately called "Gion-san," enshrines Susanoo-no-Mikoto, the god who dispels all calamity, and is the head shrine of the roughly 2,300 Yasaka and Gion-faith shrines nationwide (shrine's official site).
  • Heian Shrine was founded in 1895 to mark the 1,100th anniversary of the relocation of the capital to Heian (Kyoto), with vermilion buildings modeled on the Heian palace (shrine's official site).
  • Heian Shrine's amulet office (juyosho) offers sacred tablets (ofuda), protective amulets (omamori), and other items (shrine's official site).

How to watch

  • Visiting a shrine is free and needs no reservation; you can worship whenever you arrive.
  • January 1–3 is the peak period, and lines may be long at popular shrines, so allow plenty of time.
  • Public transportation is recommended during the New Year period rather than driving.

Getting there

Fushimi Inari Taisha: JR Nara Line to Inari Station is right at the shrine entrance; from Keihan Main Line Fushimi Inari Station it is about a 5-minute walk.Yasaka Shrine: about a 5-minute walk from Keihan Electric Railway Gion-Shijo Station, at the eastern end of Shijo-dori.

Good to know

Which days are the first three days of the new year (san-ganichi)?

January 1–3, the first three days of the new year.

When is it most crowded?

January 1 and the daytime of January 1–3 are the peak; popular shrines may have long lines. Mornings of January 2 and 3 are usually less crowded.

Do I need a reservation or a ticket?

No. Visiting a shrine is free and does not require a reservation.

Is there a dress code?

There is no dress code; Kyoto winters are cold, so wear warm clothes and shoes that are easy to walk in.

Can I take photos on the grounds?

Rules differ by shrine; follow the notices posted on site.

Sources